A Comprehensive Perspective on Xerosis in Dermatological Practice: Current Insights into Pathomechanisms and Therapeutic Approaches with Modern Emollients

Authors

Roman A. Ivanov¹, Nikolay N. Murashkin^{1, 2, 3}

Affiliations

¹ National Medical Research Center of Children’s Health, Moscow, Russia

² Sechenov First Moscow State Medical University (Sechenov University), Moscow, Russia

³ Central State Medical Academy of Department of Presidential Affairs, Moscow, Russia

Abstract

Modern dermatological practice encompasses a wide range of disorders and conditions in which disruption of the structural and functional integrity of the epidermal barrier represents a pivotal pathogenic feature. Such impairment is typically accompanied by xerosis and inflammation, which in turn drive alterations in the skin microbiome and contribute to the development of pruritus. This concept is applicable not only to a number of genodermatoses but also to immune-mediated inflammatory dermatoses. Moreover, the described changes may result from various exogenous and endogenous influences, the latter including not only hormonal and metabolic disturbances but also psychiatric disorders. In addition to identifying and addressing the triggers underlying these disturbances, the achievement of long-term disease control is essential. To a large extent, this goal relies on adequate pharmacological management combined with appropriate skincare therapy, which continues to represent a cornerstone in the treatment of numerous xerosis-associated conditions. However, not all products containing basic moisturizing and emollient ingredients are suitable for this role. A range of practical and clinical considerations complicates the choice of emollients, including the selection of formulation type, ingredient composition, and physicochemical properties, each of which must be carefully aligned with the patient’s individual needs and preferences. Otherwise, the use of skincare products may not only fail to produce clinical benefit but also contribute to worsening of the cutaneous disorder. Given the importance of these nuances, increasing attention has been directed toward optimizing the prescription of specialized dermocosmetic agents within the “emollient-plus” class. These formulations contain active, non-pharmacological ingredients that provide more comprehensive and intensive care for dry, irritated, and sensitive skin.

Keywords: xerosis, emollients-plus, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, hypothyroidism, skin aging, diabetes mellitus, postbiotics, beta-glucans